New Orleans

Just got back from a wonderful weekend in New Orleans. Would love to share pics, but it seems my camera (which I dutifully brought) was out of batteries.

In any case, thought it necessary to write some testament to the wonderfulness that was the weekend in New Orleans. A city that most in our generation probably associate with the devastation of the hurricane Katrina and the various social, economic, infrastructural, and political issues it raised, it is also a beautifully diverse and enjoyable place. As a disclaimer, I must admit my experience of the city was certainly very isolated from the poverty and crime that form the experience of many of its inhabitants (there were six deadly shootings this weekend alone). I want not to underplay this, but instead to remind of the positive sides of the city, and there are many.

For one, the warm southern hospitality. As I got off the main drags and into the communities, I was greeted with many friendly 'howdys' and 'hellos'. The city is an interesting mosaic of French, Spanish, and English colonial, as well as true Southern US history. The grand classical architecture of the old government buildings flow comfortably into the warm pastels and lush gardens of the French quarter. It reminded me of Amsterdam in its stark contrast between the no-holds-barred partying in the bars and strip clubs of Bourbon street with the quiet beauty of just a couple blocks away.

The food was absolutely wonderful, with one caveat - make sure you specify that you don't want your seafood deep fried, unless you're more interested in oily batter than the taste of the food. Servings are described at some restaurants by their size; "The seafood platter is this [demonstrating with hands] big, the onion rings are this big..." And the music was great as well, whether it was the amazing karaoke of the crowded, full-of-crazy-partiers Cats bar, or an incredible jazz group in a listening room of the Snug Harbor jazz bistro.

I spent some time just sitting in the shade of a tree smoking a cigar and drinking an espresso in the courtyard of the Ritz Carlton. Some time walking through Bourbon street, enjoying the party, or observing the hundreds of people decked out in full pirate's dress (swords, accents, and strangely fitting clothing included) who had congregated for a pirate's convention. And some time just walking the quieter streets in the further reaches of the French quarter, enjoying the fragrance of flowers, peering into courtyard gardens, and stumbling upon a small house with a beautiful flower garden in front. There were stained glass hangings in the window with various meditative imagery. A sign above the door said "Lost Soul's Tavern". A lady was dropped off in front, she walked past me, and without even making eye contact said "For troubled souls only." She opened the door, greeted her dogs, and closed it behind her.

I suppose there is something for everyone in New Orleans.